First steps on Finland two-wheeled
Welcome to the country of 1,000 lakes
On entering Estonia I had felt it to be Scandinavia's doorstep, but only after crossing the Baltic sea and going ashore on Helsinki I've got the feeling that my journey faces a new stage: the true Scandinavian one (or maybe just the Finnish one, we'll see), of which my first goal is Tampere, a city where I still keep some acquaintances I can call friends. Far, though, from heading straight there along the 175 km freeway, I've rather stuck to my habit of takng byroads whenever possible, because that is actually what's all about: knowing via direct contact the lands where I move, instead of just crossing them like lightning, as one travels by plane; and for this purpose it is essential to keep oneself clear of the speedways. Besides, goes without saying, riding a bike on a freeway is boring like hell. So, from Helsinki I headed more or less north along well over 200 km, until in the evening of my second day on Finnish land I ended up in the small locality of Sahalahti.
Little acquainted with Finland's accomodation infrastructure —or rather the lack thereof— I had to spend my first night in a campground, whereof there are hundreds, as corresponds to a country where most people spend their holidays going camping. Here, very few travelers stay in hotels, these being scant and expensive, and most vacationers end up holidaying in campsites, where they lodge either in their own caravans (quite common in Scandinavia), tents, or in wooden huts, which vary from small, single-bedded units to large, family-geared cottages with two dorms, private bathroom and even sauna. I took one of the smallest, for I don't need anything bigger, which would fall out of my budget. The first thing I missed was bed linen; I didn't think of it when preparing my luggage, and anyway I can't carry a speeping bag on my motorcycle’s small cases. Here, hut beds come always on a naked mattress, and renting linen for just one night doesn't pay off; so, I resolved to sleep on my towel, and buy a sheet further on, for I will need it often along the upcoming weeks. For the rest, no complaints; the little cottage was barely a doghouse, but enough for my needs, with a bed, a small table, a stool and a heater (useless these warm days).
There was also a lake, where children were playing, and I seized the opportunity for taking a dip before having a shower. Despite what it might seem, lakes in Finland are almost tepid during summer time, waters being quite shallow and very dark coloured (because of the turf), which makes for a high radiation absorption. Shallowness is, by the way, also the reason why lakes get frozen so early in winter.
As to a sauna, and despite being so fond of it, I've disregarded the idea: we're getting temperatures above 30 ºC these days and sauna is no fun: you can’t possibly enjoy it on a warm weather. For the past weeks I was hoping to find this side of the Baltic some cooler weather, but such hope has proved to be unfounded.
I arrived on an empty stomach. Given that I normally don't carry any food on the bike and as there wasn't anywhere in a few kilometres' radius where to have a proper dinner, I had to do with a couple of pizza slices in the small snack bar by the reception. This did the trick and gave me some energy for a long stride along the road; not that I like to walk on asphalt, but the forest track was infested with mosquitoes, which are the real nightmare in summer time this side of the world. Although we tend to associate those jolly insects with tropical climates, the truth is that subartic regions swarm with them during the hot season, most of all in lacustrine areas. By the way, dipterans are what I was most afraid of for bed time, because inside my hut it was so hot after the sunny day —very long this time of the year— that I knew I wouldn't fall asleep unless I left the door ajar, in order to let in the night's coolness. But I was lucky and the mosquitoes didn't visit me.
As usual, I've woken up quite late. Luckily I'm not in a hurry, and I don't have much stuff to pack. Harnessing the bike is a matter of two minutes, so that by noon I was already riding Rosaura under the tall, wooden archway of the campsite. Today it's been as hot as the previous month, if not more. Anyone having traveled through really torrid regions will laugh at the present >30 ºC, but for a country like Finland such highs, kept for such long time, mean quite a record, which is why most locals say that this is the hottest summer of their lives. Yet, there's still people who stubbornly deny global warming...
In keeping with the course I took yesterday, I've ridden northwards today, through Finland's endless woods and countless lakes, with the idea of first gaining the latitude of Tampere, then heading there by turning west. But besides trees and water there has been no highlight today, the only remarkable event being the quick and freshening dip I've taken in a lake along the road. It needs to be said that, in Finland, the law grants universal right to freely move around wherever, including private land; which means there are no grounds for 'Private property, no trespassing' type of signs; and that's why you find none. Lands, lakes and woods are free to walk even if private owned, provided you do no harm. So if you feel like —say— take a plunge, you only have to come by the nearest lakeshore and get into the water without needing anyone's permission. So, when I was sufficiently bothered by the day's heat, and as the road was running along a lake in whose shore I was spotting, across the trees, several bathers or Sunday excursionists, I seized the chance and pulled over to a track towards the shore. There was a small jetty where a family was frolicking and, after politely asking them permission to use the jetty, I undressed, put on my swimming trunks and took a lovely swim one hundred metres inlake. Once I was done, I laid down on the jetty to dry out, and they started talking to me. A couple with three children they were, welcoming and curious as Finns usually are. And despite their lousy English, we managed to chat for a while. I was even offered a soda, but I refused, as I'm not too fond of pops. Had it been a beer I wouldn't have said no.
Obviously they asked me about my trip. I am now sufficiently far from Spain for calling people's attention, so they wanted to know about a biker who's come to visit here after so long a ride. Besides, admittedly, I also enjoy being the subject of such a surprise, even though, to be honest, I envy them more than they envy me. But I did not tell them so, because I am sure they enjoy imagining they might one day do themselves such a journey like mine, since they ignore this is a journey to nowhere; so, they do not need to know anything about my spiritual burden; no need to dispel their fantasies by telling them their simple lives are, quite likely, better than my freedom, given the price to pay: this existential anguish of mine and, well, some other things I'd rather keep to myself.
As I wrote above, in the early evning I've arrived to Sahalahti, where I've found a place to stay overnight. I had been looking for accomodation a while since, but in Finland it can be quite tricky to find a lodging; one shouldn't rely too much on good luck. Actually, the place I've finally found, a B&B called Ranta-hölli, is a 4 km dirt-road ride away, luckly in good shape. I almost had to go back empty handed, for upon arrival I saw nobody, not even a car, and I thought it was closed. I rang the doorbell, and I was about to leave when the owner opened the door, thankfully. Ranta-hölli is so fine a place that I hardly could’ve come across anything better: nice bedrooms and facilities, a pretty and fully equipped kitchen, a large dining room with an amazing six metres long massive wood slab table, beautiful views and an unbeatable sauna cottage right by the lake. Besides, the host is a kind and capable lady, good humoured, and her fluent English makes for a clever conversation. So, this is going to be, I guess, my home for the next two or three days. Not always is a traveler that lucky to find a lodging where he feels comfortable enough to extend his stay.
